Marchesa's Sacred Spires

At first glance, the individual pieces in Marchesa's fall/winter 2008 collection felt overtly feminine, often bordering on frilly. But, when studied as a whole, the complex detailing and pronounced structure of the collection reminded me of tapering spires and tiered pagodas found on temples and sanctuaries. (I was also reminded of their decorated finials, the highest point of the spire or pagoda which serves to protect it from lightning.)

Symbolically, spires and pagodas have two functions. The first is to give the impression of strength. The second is to reach up toward the skies, bringing one closer to divinity. So, it was no surprise to find out that each piece paid subtle tribute to Queen Elizabeth I, who was forced to keep her femininity hidden despite her awesome power. According to Nicole Phelps of style.com, "There was a new structure to these clothes. Take the stunning black dress with an hourglass shape so sculpturally defiant, it evoked armor. Anybody who wore it would be paparazzi-proof."